Hertfordshire & North Middlesex Area of the Ramblers' Association
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The ups and downs and a good soaking: the Milford Trek, New Zealand
Roger and Linda Smee
Retirement. Now that is a really frightening prospect. No work, no money, just complete boredom with nothing to do all day but watch TV.
No, no! That can't be right. Let's rewind that and start again.
Retirement. Plenty of time to do all the things that weren't possible while working. Visiting places and doing things that you'd always wanted to, but never quite had the time. DIY projects, gardening, weekends away, reading, photography, learning a language, walking, relaxing and taking long holidays in far away places.
"Yes, the thought of long holidays in far away places sounds good."
"What about Brighton , Eastbourne , or Scarborough ?"
"No. What about even further away than that?"
"Okay, how about the Lake District , Scotland or Wales ?"
"No, no. I was thinking of much further still. What about Singapore , New Zealand , Australia & Hong Kong for a start?"
That was our decision just before Christmas 2006. Linda had taken early retirement in July, and I had just returned to part-time work after my first early retirement. We thought that a long distance walk in New Zealand would be challenging, so we booked The Milford Trek from Lake Te Anau to The Milford Sound in South Island , and planned the rest of our nine-week holiday to suit those arrangements. We chose March, as that was the best month for reasonable weather conditions for a long trek. The walk is through bush land, up-and-over a mountain and through rain forest where the average rainfall is 25mm each day. March is autumn in New Zealand , so the climate is very similar to September in the UK .
With all the arrangements, flights and accommodation planned and booked, we left Heathrow at 10pm on 26 February 2008 , bound for Singapore as a three-day stop-over on our way to Queenstown , New Zealand , before starting the trek.
Singapore was hot. Belgian lager in an air conditioned bar cost £7 a pint. Drug dealing carries the death penalty, and kissing in the street is an arrestable offence - or was that the other way around? The air terminal was surgically clean and I was really impressed by the efficiency of the lost luggage official, who located my missing bag with just a click of his mouse and a few taps on the keyboard. "Your bag is at Heathrow, but will be put on the very next flight" he said confidently, as he handed over 100 Singapore dollars as compensation for my inconvenience. I can only assume that the dozen or so electrical charging leads in my bag, all absolutely essential for the electronic items vital to everyday life these days, had shown-up on the Heathrow X-ray machine as a terrorist's bomb making kit. Sand bags, bomb disposal squad, controlled explosion came worryingly to mind. After three days and many phone calls, the bag eventually arrived at our hotel just six hours before we were due to leave for New Zealand. I had worried unnecessarily about having to buy new clothes for the following nine weeks, including a full kit of walking gear, although I did have to buy "smart casual clothes" for afternoon tea at Raffles.
Near to our hotel were several shopping malls. Conveniently, each one had a large M&S store. Afternoon tea at Raffles was a unique experience with a large selection of posh sandwiches, scones with jam and cream, sticky buns, cakes & buffet food, endless refills of Darjeeling , and a lady harpist playing Christmas carols - in March. I think that I looked smart enough in my new M&S clothes, and I'm sure that nobody was particularly worried that I was wearing trainers.
We repacked our bags, dividing the contents equally, so that we both had items in each bag, and left Singapore for Queenstown NZ. Leaving the plane at Queenstown airport, we found seats near to the immigration desk, observing the other travellers jostling for positions in the queues divided between Aus & New Zealanders and all other countries. Eventually the queues cleared and we passed through immigration as the last two passengers from our flight. Just around the corner was the luggage carousel with just two bags circulating on opposite sides. Retrieving the bags with more than just a little relief, we found a trolley and followed the directions to customs and the exit to the outside world. There was, of course, another queue at customs, which we joined and waited patiently. The customs lady beamed a welcoming smile and asked the reason for our visit to New Zealand and the length of our stay. "A seven week holiday, walking the Milford Trail, other walks throughout South and North Island , and a motor caravan tour from Queenstown to Auckland ," I replied. She beamed a wider smile and asked to see our boots. Linda had been pre-warned of the boot inspection before we left home, and had scrubbed our boots meticulously with a tooth brush. "Okay, that's fine, these are the cleanest boots I've ever seen" she said with slight disappointment.
Leaving the arrivals hall we found the bus stop for the shuttle into Queenstown and our B & B accommodation for three nights. The next bus was in 20 minutes, so we returned to the arrivals hall for a coffee. "Two cappuccinos please," I said to the man at the coffee stall in my usual North London tones. "Sorry mate, what was that?" replied the man. Well that's a good start, I thought, the local natives can't understand my accent. I had to repeat myself three times, eventually pointing to the pictures on the wall behind the counter and mouthing the words as though he was deaf. "Oh, right.two keapoes" said the man eventually, with a broad smile on his face as though he had just successfully communicated with a Martian.
The bus journey was quite short. We easily found our B&B and were soon in our room gazing from the window in awe of the wonderful views. The house was on a hillside about a mile outside Queenstown town centre, with spectacular, uninterrupted views across the beautiful Lake Wakatipu with a backdrop of mountains as far as the eye could see. It was very much like the Lake District on steroids. Our hosts were retired sheep farmers and amateur golfers, with invaluable local knowledge and many interesting and amusing stories to entertain us during breakfast. There were three days before the beginning of our trek, so we had plenty of time to walk the surrounding area, and to try to learn the dialect. Queenstown is an extreme sports centre and there are opportunities for bungee jumping, jet boating, off-road 4WD, mountain biking and hiking. There are plenty of good bars and restaurants and lots of people with broken or injured limbs, limping around on crutches. We walked into Queenstown many times and took loads of photos of the ever-changing views.
On the afternoon before starting the Milford Trek, we walked up Queenstown Hill (2,700ft) in preparation for the 3,700ft mountain climb that we faced in three days' time. It was hot and sunny. The path was steep and rocky. With light packs we both struggled a little, taking frequent rest stops. We began to worry about the fitness, ages and abilities of our fellow walkers during the next four days. At the top of the hill (more like a mountain to me) we found shade for our lunch break, enjoyed the wonderful views across the lake and mountains and took more photos. The briefing for the Milford Trek was later that afternoon, so we descended the steep path and made our way to the meeting room.
We were the only people there who were wearing boots and walking gear, and the only Brits. Most of the other 48 in the group were Australians, with about a dozen New Zealanders, a few Japanese, four Canadians, three Americans and a Dutch couple. Most were about our age or slightly younger except for one of the Japanese who must have been in his late 70s. The briefing was very interesting, explaining the route in minute detail and ending with a video about the plants, birds and animals that we could expect to see. We were told about the overnight accommodation and the meal arrangements etc, and it was stressed most importantly that we should travel light, carrying the minimum possible weight in our packs. We were loaned rucksacks (40 litre), waterproof rain jackets and walking poles if we needed them, and it was recommended that we took thermal underwear, as it may be necessary "on the mountain". On the following morning we declined the offer of a lift from our hosts, and left our B&B walking to the coach pick-up point for Lake Te Anau and the start of the trek. We met our guides and fellow walkers and boarded the coach for the two-hour journey. At the lake we left the coach and boarded a powerful boat that took us to the far end, otherwise inaccessible by road. The boat was crowded, as not only were there walkers from our group, but also independent walkers who were staying in self catering bunkhouses. The independent walkers all had very large rucksacks, as they not only had to carry all their walking gear, but also bedding and enough food and drink for the whole four days.
As we were nearing the landing stage at Glade House (the start of the trek) an announcement was made on the boat's PA system about the dreaded New Zealand sand flies. Sand flies are nasty midge-like insects. They are smaller than their Scottish cousins, but extremely vicious, giving a painful bite, resulting in a large swollen itchy spot. The announcement advised that we should liberally apply our insect repellent now, as the sand fly invasion would start as soon as we set foot on land. "Alternatively," he said, "you should find a Pom. No matter how much repellent they use the flies swarm around them and leave everyone within a 10 metre radius completely unbothered." We sank low in our seats and hoped that no one had realised that we were British.
As we left the boat and returned to dry land, the air was heavy with the combined aromas of insect repellents from every nation. Ours was a pleasant lemon fragrance. The Japanese fragrance was more like cat's pee! Now seriously, if you were a sand fly, which one would you prefer?
We only had to walk a mile or so to our overnight accommodation at Glade House. We walked along a good flat path through dense woodland; it was just like a Sunday ramble through Knebworth woods. We found that the sand flies didn't bother us too much as long as we kept moving. At the lodge we were relieved to find that all the windows were fitted with fly screens and there was a large aerosol canister of insect spray in our room. There was a short pre-dinner nature walk, which gave our guides the opportunity to demonstrate their enthusiasm and knowledge of everything that flies, crawls or grows in the New Zealand bush. Returning to the lodge, we enjoyed an excellent three-course dinner, followed by a video showing us what we could expect to see on the trek the following day.
All the lodges are literally off the beaten track, without access by road. Everything is brought in or taken out by helicopter. There is no mains electricity. All power is supplied by generator. The generator runs continuously (rather noisily) from 6am to 10pm , which means lights out at 10pm. Although there is minimal battery powered "'emergency" lighting, when the plug is pulled on the generator, the darkness is total and absolutely nothing at all like we had ever seen before in the UK. There are many more stars in the southern hemisphere, and in the darkness the sky is illuminated by millions of stars that we have never seen before.
After a good night's sleep in the complete quiet and darkness, the generator cranking into life at 6am negated the need for an alarm clock. A generous breakfast was served at 6.30am and everything necessary for preparing a DIY packed lunch was provided at a buffet style sandwich bar. After packing all our belongings, we left our room and waited outside the lodge with the other walkers. The Japanese group had their own unofficial guide who had a remarkable likeness to an oriental Crocodile Dundee. Everyone watched while the Japanese completed their synchronised warm-up exercise routine - led by Mr Dundee.
The first of the four guides left Glade House at just after 7.30am , while the Japanese were still exercising. A steady trickle of walkers left the lodge and crossed the swing bridge over the river Clinton to follow the path through the woodland. On this walk there were many swing bridges crossing and re-crossing the rivers. For the uninitiated, a swing bridge is a string and firewood construction with the emphasis on cost rather than safety. Notices on all of the bridges state the safe number of people allowed on the bridge at any one time. The first bridge we crossed was a 10 person bridge, but in my opinion, the safest number of people to use a swing bridge at any time is one , particularly if you are trying to take photographs. We crossed the bridge and continued along the path beside the river. We were encouraged by our guides to walk "at your own pace," stopping to look at wildlife and photograph views or items of interest at your leisure. Drinking water is not a problem. All the streams have sweet, clear, clean water that is quite safe to drink and refill your water bottles with.
The first full day's walk is only about 10 miles, starting with a flat path following the river through beech forests and along an old packhorse trail (used by the gold miners in the 1890s), through the Clinton valley. The valley is a text book "U-shaped 
valley" formed by glacial erosion, with 4,000ft mountains on each side. Between the forests is "The Prairie" section where the track is marked by posts on each side, so that the route can be followed during flooding. Thankfully, there was no flooding when we were walking, but there were areas that were rather boggy. "The prairie" is green and lush with wild pampas grass and foxgloves growing everywhere. There are many waterfalls and hidden lakes where rare blue ducks can be seen. The last mile has an uphill climb and re-enters beech forest before the next lodge at Pompolona. Although we walked quite slowly, taking a leisurely lunch stop and many stops for photographs, we reached the lodge in time for afternoon tea.
The third day was a shorter distance - only nine miles. But there was a 3,700ft mountain to negotiate, and so, an earlier start was called for. It was 7am , and still dark when we left the lodge. Following a gentle slope, the path rose steadily and across another swing bridge. The going became progressively steeper and began a series of nine zigzags, gaining height as we climbed over rocky natural steps. Passing several ponds (tarns) with beautiful mirror-like reflections of snow capped mountains, we passed a cairn with a memorial stone to the pioneers of the Milford Trail which was first walked in 1888. We were now at over 3,000ft and were surprised to see two of our guides handing out cups of soup and hot chocolate (for all 50 walkers) from large thermos flasks that they had carried all the way up the mountain. Although it was noticeably cooler at that altitude, it was a clear sunny day, and so we did not need our thermal underwear which was just as well as I didn't have any. Refreshed by the hot drinks, we continued on the upward trail, stopping frequently to catch our breath and take in the "awesome" views. Eventually we reached the highest point of the trail and stopped for lunch at the Mackinnon Pass Shelter, home of the infamous "loo with a view". The loo overlooks an incredible panorama over the Mackinnon Pass , with the Clinton Valley beyond nestling between 4,000ft mountains. There is a low window in the door of the 4ft x 4ft loo, so that the uninterrupted scenery can be enjoyed from the pilot's seat.
After a leisurely and well earned lunch we began our descent. This was, for me, more difficult than the climb with relentless knee-jarring natural stony steps, which varied in height from 12 inches to 3ft. The scenery was spectacular for the whole of the downward trek, and eventually our overnight stop (Quintin Lodge) came gratefully into sight. After the usual afternoon tea and a short rest we put our boots back on and left the lodge for a short walk to Sutherland Falls. There are many waterfalls on the Milford Trek, but at 1,904ft and the fifth highest in the world, this is definitely the most spectacular. The thunder of the falling torrent can be heard from a considerable distance, and the lake beneath the falls is a good place to stop and rest - as long as you don't mind getting wet from the spray.
Following our meal that evening, our guides (who incidentally were also our waiters and waitresses), gave the following day's weather forecast. The final day's walk was through 12 miles of rain forest, and as there had been no rain for the previous three days, we could expect a really good soaking. They added that this was the best possible news, as we would see the forest at its best with full streams and waterfalls.
After another early start we walked on the gently sloping downhill track through the rainforest - no rain yet, as promised. The terrain was very different in this final section. There was a lakeside path which had been blasted into the sheer rock face (in 1898) to provide a mule track for the gold miners. Through more rainforest there was an extensive boarded section with several flights of wooden steps alongside a series of waterfalls ending in a sky blue plunge pool. All of these constructions had to be helicoptered in, as there is no road access.
At about 11am the rain started with a vengeance. In the forest there was good cover from the tree canopy, but as we walked through clearings, there was no cover at all. The lunch stop was a welcome break under cover, but putting back on soaking clothing to resume the trek was not so good. The guides were quite right about the streams and waterfalls; they were very, very full. Although we were soaked and feeling rather warm, we really enjoyed the last mile or two to Sandfly Point and the end of the walk, in spite of the relentless rain. After a souvenir photo, we made for the boat to the hotel at Milford Sound and the last night stop. The boat was obviously not designed for weather protection, with minimal covered cabin space. It was clearly a fair weather sightseeing boat. The dozen or so inside seats were already taken, so we had to wait on the deck for 30 minutes (in monsoon type rain) until more walkers arrived and the boat was full. The one-hour boat trip was grim with poor visibility and torrential rain. At the hotel we changed into dry clothes, which had been sent on from Queenstown at the start of the walk, and put our wet clothes in the drying room.
After evening dinner there was a certificate presentation to all the walkers, with a chance to talk to everyone and thank our guides for their service "over and above the line of duty". On the following morning it was still damp and misty, not exactly the best conditions for our boat trip on Milford Sound. All the picture postcards showed perfect mirror reflections of the fiords and mountains in the clear blue waters of The Sound - nothing at all like the conditions shown on my photographs.
Looking back over the trek, we marvelled at the great times that we had and the people that we had met. The highlights? Well, there were many apart from those already mentioned. At breakfast one day, when all the tables were taken, I sat with the Japanese walkers. What polite, gentle people they are. I bowed and nodded so much that I needed painkillers and a neck massage before we could start walking. Then there was the lady from "the second largest Paris in the world," near to Dallas , Texas , who was married to a stone deaf A&E fast response doctor. (Doesn't that sound just like a character from a Carry On film?) She was airlifted off the mountain by helicopter with suspected altitude sickness. There was also a group of eight Australian ladies (they all sounded like Kylie), who were in their early 50s and had been friends since their schooldays. They all had brand new gear, including boots; all dressed immaculately, and had permanent fixed smiles on their faces - all day long. Did you ever see the film The Stepford Wives? .Very creepy. Their husbands too were quite strange, with a dominant male (incidentally the tallest and loudest of the group), who was followed and mimicked by the rest of his "flock" in everything that he did, everywhere he went. very strange.
All the four guides were marvellous. They started work at first light, clearing the breakfast tables, looked after our every need all day long, provided first aid care, made tea and coffee for our morning break and lunch stop, gave us useful information about wildlife and plants all day long and waited at table and ran the bar in the evening. All in all, a 16 hour day.
Well that was the end of our trek. We returned to Queenstown by coach, bade goodbye to everyone and walked back to the second best B&B that we had ever stayed at.
So what was the best B&B? .Well that's another story.
Back packs in New Zealand
