Hertfordshire & North Middlesex Area of the Ramblers' Association
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By train to Istanbul with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays
David Allard
I have always enjoyed travelling by train so when I saw in the Summer 2008 brochure a train trip from London to Istanbul, I booked immediately.
Our journey started from St Pancras International on 26 July but as we were requested to report to the Ramblers' leader at 6am, I went to King's Cross on the Friday night and stayed at the nearby Travelodge, which I had to book and pay in advance. This cost £85, cheaper than the other hotels nearby and probably less expensive if booked well in advance. Two of the party stayed at the Youth Hostel. There were 25 in our party and our leader divided us into groups so we could tell her if we were all here and she did not have to count all 25.
Our Eurostar train left at 7am and took us to Lille where we took a TGV train to Nice, fast and comfortable and with air conditioning and a buffet on board. We had two excellent evening meals at a restaurant and an interesting walk around Nice on the Sunday above the city from where we had glorious views. We made our own arrangements for lunch.
On the Monday morning we left by train for Mestre, a suburb of Venice, changing at Milan. We walked to a nearby restaurant which was quite good but could not compare with the fantastic meals we had enjoyed in Nice. The hotel was very pleasant and we stayed three nights. We bought a two day bus ticket at the hotel and this also covered the ferry trips on the canals in Venice. One evening we ate in Venice which was very pleasant and we made our own arrangements for lunch. Our leader took us on walking tours around Venice including St Mark's Square. On the second day we took a boat to two of the islands, Burano and Murano. Venice is famous for its glass but not cheap. I visited a glass showroom on Burano but did not buy any. However in Venice we occasionally dispersed and met up again at Ponte di Rialto so when I saw a plate depicting this bridge, I decided to buy it and it now graces my dining room wall.
On the Thursday we boarded a train to Trieste where, because the Italians and Slovenians had not been able to agree how much Slovenia should pay for running their trains on Italian rails, we had to take a coach to Ljubljana. We had a couple of hours in Trieste so we had lunch there. The last time I had been in Trieste was in 1952, the year King George VI died, during my National Service, when Trieste was an international port. It subsequently came into Italy. The hotel at Ljubljana in Slovenia was out of this world with free internet access and a fridge in one's room with complimentary drinks. From Ljubljana onwards I could not speak any of the languages but fortunately everyone spoke English and sometimes also French or German of which I have a reasonable knowledge. Also the writing when not in Roman text sometimes looked similar but, at other times, completely different. The bedrooms in the hotel were airconditioned and the hotel very modern. Our evening meal finished in good time and some of us went to a pop concert afterwards. This was held in a museum concerning country life in the old days, which I took the opportunity to visit the next day, after a boat trip with a commentary in English, which was most enjoyable. In the morning our leader took us on a walkabout and we went on a funicular railway, which took us to many old roman artefacts including many mosaics. It also gave us an excellent view over the town. Slovenia is in the EU but does not use the euro.
On the Saturday we boarded a train again for Belgrade in Serbia. The station was close to the hotel so we were able to walk to the station. There was a buffet on the train which was very civilized as one ordered at the bar and sat down with one's beer and a sandwich was brought to you. The train often went quite slowly which gave you a better view. Maize was a popular crop and also sunflowers. The hotel at Belgrade had the convenience of an ATM inside and a bar which always seemed to be open and where the drinks were very cheap. The hotel was close to the Kalemagden citadel, an ancient fortification, which had once been much bigger and the next morning we had a local guide to show us round the site. We had a wonderful view across the river on the far side. There was a statue which I believe commemorated the victory in World War 1 and also the liberation of the city from the Turks. It had previously been in the main square but some local ladies had objected because the statue was a man in the nude so it had been moved to a less prominent site. Unfortunately only one museum was open on the Sunday afternoon and it was a long way away but despite help from several locals and three bus rides later, I was unable to reach it before it closed. Although I got rather lost, following the signs for the Kalemagden citadel brought me safely back to the hotel.
Monday morning we were back on a train to Sofia in Bulgaria. Fortunately I took the leader's advice to buy something for lunch as there were no refreshments on the train despite it being a long journey. Sofia was very delightful and the hotel excellent with airconditioning in the bedrooms. Again we had a local guide, who also came to the hotel on the evening we arrived, and he took us on an interesting walkabout. He first took us to a Bureau de Change which did not, however, change Serbian currency which some of us had left over. However I observed a large CHANGE sign a short distance away where I was able to change my money and also direct other members of the party. Our guide took us to see many fine and interesting buildings. We also visited a roman amphitheatre in the old part of the town. We were free for a while afterwards and I went to a museum displaying old photographs and traditional costumes. The final section of our rail journey was overnight to Istanbul and, as the train did not leave until late evening, we had an extremely pleasant meal in a restaurant in the old part of the town. It was in the open but as the temperature was about 30 degrees most of the holiday and it never rained; this was very pleasant.
We had sleepers on the train and, as I had requested a single room, I had a compartment to myself. I thought the washing facilities were very good and I was able to have a good wash and shave the next morning. The journey was however rather disturbed as we had to show our passports when we left Bulgaria. When we arrived in Turkey at 4am we had to leave the train and queue up to have a visa pasted into our passport for which we had to pay £10 with a UK £10 note and then to queue again to have the visa stamped. Then back on the train we had to wait for the officials to come and check that everyone had a stamped visa in their passport. We left again at 6am. As the train was late arriving we went straight to our hotel for brunch as it was about 11.30am.
In the afternoon a local guide took us on a visit of the town and we went to a large mosque which was formerly both Christian and moslem and now appears to be a museum except for special occasions. It closes on Mondays for cleaning. We also visited an ancient under reservoir which featured on a recent TV programme with Francesco but we did not paddle through the water. This would certainly not have been allowed and was no doubt just for the programme. There were certainly masses of fish swimming about there. Our guide also took us to the Grand Bazaar but I did not buy anything. The next day our leader took us to a mosque where there were beautiful coloured tiles and I bought some postcards. She also took us to the Spice Market where I saw a wonderful plate but the stallholder wanted 85 Turkish Lirasi so I said I was not interested. He asked me to make an offer so I said 40 (something under £20) and he accepted this. I also bought some Turkish Delight – two boxes for 5 Turkish Lirasi, sometimes referred to as Turkish Pounds apparently. I joined the leader and two others for lunch next to a mosque and men including young boys were praying a few feet from where we were sitting. Apparently they pray five times a day. It lasted about 40 minutes. Afterwards I decided to go on a boat trip on the Bosporus which was most enjoyable. One of our party was complaining she was cold as there was quite a pleasant breeze.
The next morning we had to go to the airport for our flight home but I was told there was an Orient Express museum at the station so I went to visit this, not a great deal to see but quite interesting. The Orient Express stopped running as a service in 1977. I was very impressed with Istanbul airport, very modern and well organized but the refreshments were expensive. The 10 Lirasi I had left only bought me a sandwich, no money for a drink. However we were given quite a reasonable lunch on the plane and arrived back on time to cold and wet. I had to put back my watch two hours. I was in a bit of a panic as I could not find my case but it turned up eventually.
And so ended a wonderful holiday which I certainly recommend.
Istanbul underground reservoir
